The New Alpinism Training Log -
Then he turned forty. His knee ached in cold weather. He took two rest days and felt weaker, not stronger. And last spring, on Mt. Temple, he’d watched a man his age—lean, calm, unhurried—float up a mixed line that Leo had backed off from. The man hadn’t grunted or swore. He’d simply moved, as if gravity had become a suggestion.
In the world of technical mountain sports, the paradigm shifted dramatically in 2014 with the publication of Training for the New Alpinism by Steve House and Scott Johnston. For decades, the prevailing wisdom was simple: to get better at climbing mountains, go climb mountains. The "New Alpinism" movement shattered that notion, introducing periodized, objective-based physical training—borrowed from elite endurance sports—into the high-stakes realm of ice, rock, and altitude. the new alpinism training log
Date: ________ AM Score (1-5): __ RHR: __ Sleep (hrs): __ Then he turned forty
Create a cumulative fatigue score. Add your daily "Training Stress" (1-10) to your "Life Stress" (job, family, sleep debt). If the sum exceeds 15 for three consecutive days, take a rest day. And last spring, on Mt